Unmistakable Nebbiolo
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May 3, 2026Josef Bonello writes about his experience sampling the latest vintages for Barolo and Barbaresco.
There are moments when a wine stops being just a wine. It becomes a place, a mood, a quiet conversation with yourself. A spiritual experience, if ever I had one.
Nebbiolo can do that to me. Perhaps it is the name, born from nebbia, the mist that drapes the Langhe in autumn, or perhaps it is the way this grape refuses to rush. Nebbiolo waits, ripens late, asks for patience, and in return gives wines that are worth the wait in every sip.
Walking through the Langhe, I always marvel at the south-facing hillsides catching the afternoon light, vineyards rising between castles that have watched over generations of growers.
Nebbiolo is not an easy companion. It demands the right soil, the right altitude, the right rhythm between warm days and cool nights. Yet this very fragility is what makes it noble. It is a grape that teaches humility, reminding us that great wine is never accidental.
From Nebbiolo come two iconic expressions: Barolo and Barbaresco. They are often described as siblings with different temperaments. Barolo stands tall; regal, layered, almost philosophical. Born across eleven historic communes, it carries the legacy of Count Cavour and the Savoy courts, where it once revelled as an ambassador of Piedmont. There is always a sense of ceremony about Barolo: roses, cherries, spice, and that subtle hint of leather that feels like opening an old, cherished book.
Barbaresco, on the other hand, whispers rather than declares. It expresses a gentler face of Nebbiolo. Around the villages of Barbaresco, Treiso and Neive, the wines seem to ooze elegance, offering a more immediate charm while still promising longevity.
Recently, I had the opportunity to savour Barolos and Barbarescos, among other regional offerings, as the latest vintages were being released.
Early impressions of Barbaresco 2023 suggest wines that lean towards finesse rather than power, with bright acidity and an ease of expression that makes them immediately engaging. Many producers speak of balance rather than grandeur, a year shaped by climatic contrasts that demanded sensitivity in the vineyard.
The best examples seem to carry that quiet elegance Barbaresco does so well; approachable, yet layered, with what one critic beautifully described as “sneaky concentration” beneath an inviting surface.
2022 was a challenging vintage for Barolo, yet its wines
feel particularly in tune with the times. There is structure,
yes, but also a fresh openness that invites you in rather
than keeping you at a distance.
The colour glows with youthful garnet tones, while the nose unfolds with cherries, rose petals and a gentle sprinkle of spice that lingers. On the palate, the tannins feel present yet welcoming and less austere. It is the kind of Barolo that reminds me that tradition is not about rigidity; it is about continuity.
And then there is Barolo Riserva 2020; a wine that gives you the sensation of breathing in the gorgeous Piemontese landscape. If Barolo 2022 speaks with openness, the 2020 Riservas seem to be marked by great balance.
Extended ageing has begun to shape the tannins into something less intrusive, allowing typical notes of dried rose and sweet spice to mingle with deeper earthy tones. It is not a loud vintage; rather, it invites you to slow down and savour.
All these beauties come in the Albeisa bottle, with that trademark curve that signals you are holding a piece of Alba’s identity. Designed centuries ago and revived by visionary producers, it travels the world as a subtle ambassador, announcing its origin before you even read the label.
What I find so intriguing about Nebbiolo is the sense of belonging it carries. The Langhe is more than vineyards; it is a cultural landscape where wine, truffles and tradition coexist.
Today, projects to restore wooded areas and protect biodiversity remind us that wine is also about responsibility; a promise to future generations that these hills will continue to tell their story.
In the end, Nebbiolo is not just a grape. It is a symbol. It reflects patience, resilience and the beauty of evolution.
Josef Bonello
Anointed by the god Bacchus himself as one of his most loyal prophets, Joséf was entrusted with the sacred mission of bringing wine to people very early on in his adult life. Spreading his mantra that age improves with wine, he has now been delivering the good news for almost three decades, saving many a poor soul from being lost to meagre pleasures of other earthly potions by helping them see the light eternal, as seen through a gleaming goblet of wine of the finest.
Click here to see Horeca Issue 23 online
The colour glows with youthful garnet tones, while the nose unfolds with cherries, rose petals and a gentle sprinkle of spice that lingers. On the palate, the tannins feel present yet welcoming and less austere. It is the kind of Barolo that reminds me that tradition is not about rigidity; it is about continuity.
And then there is Barolo Riserva 2020; a wine that gives you the sensation of breathing in the gorgeous Piemontese landscape. If Barolo 2022 speaks with openness, the 2020 Riservas seem to be marked by great balance.
Extended ageing has begun to shape the tannins into something less intrusive, allowing typical notes of dried rose and sweet spice to mingle with deeper earthy tones. It is not a loud vintage; rather, it invites you to slow down and savour.
All these beauties come in the Albeisa bottle, with that trademark curve that signals you are holding a piece of Alba’s identity. Designed centuries ago and revived by visionary producers, it travels the world as a subtle ambassador, announcing its origin before you even read the label.
What I find so intriguing about Nebbiolo is the sense of belonging it carries. The Langhe is more than vineyards; it is a cultural landscape where wine, truffles and tradition coexist.
Today, projects to restore wooded areas and protect biodiversity remind us that wine is also about responsibility; a promise to future generations that these hills will continue to tell their story.
In the end, Nebbiolo is not just a grape. It is a symbol. It reflects patience, resilience and the beauty of evolution.
Josef Bonello
Anointed by the god Bacchus himself as one of his most loyal prophets, Joséf was entrusted with the sacred mission of bringing wine to people very early on in his adult life. Spreading his mantra that age improves with wine, he has now been delivering the good news for almost three decades, saving many a poor soul from being lost to meagre pleasures of other earthly potions by helping them see the light eternal, as seen through a gleaming goblet of wine of the finest.
Click here to see Horeca Issue 23 online
