The new wave of local treats is lighter, fresher, and is
attracting a steady following among international foodies.
In this first of a two-part feature, Ramona Depares
explores surprising twists on two sweet favourites.
It wasn’t too long ago that Maltese food was
dismissed as something visitors to the island may try
just to tick a box. A few classics – rabbit stew, pastizzi
– were trotted out with boring regularity at the
obvious places, but menus aimed at visitors leaned
heavily on pan-European staples.
Enter 2025 and the vibe couldn’t be more different.
Across the islands, chefs are taking the dishes they grew
up with and treating them as a star attraction.
Take the famed Pasta Roża - a soft, bring pink cushion
of cake, coconut and happiness - is probably one of the
most recognisable of Maltese sweets. And now, it’s found
a place on the current menu at Noni’s of Valletta. This
new take, Chef Patron Jonathan Brincat says, is rooted in
nostalgia - but with some definite differences.
“Traditionally, this is a simple treat. A sponge cake
dipped in syrup and rolled in coconut, a taste of home
for many of us. And we wanted to honour that memory,”
he starts off.
The treat has now been reimagined it the same familiar
flavours, but refined in texture and balance, giving it a
contemporary edge while preserving its soul.
“It’s playful, comforting, and instantly recognisable, the
perfect way to end a meal by connecting our guests to a
shared piece of childhood memories, but through a fresh
lens,” Chef says.
Such reimaginings, he adds, are adding a new wave
of pride in our food. After years of Maltese cuisine not
being given the recognition it deserved, not by chefs, not
by locals, and certainly not on a global level, things are
changing.
“And it’s about time,” he states with a smile.
So what’s behind this reinvention?
“I don’t believe in reinventing just for the sake of it. A ‘twist’ should come from understanding. If I’m going to reimagine a dish, it’s because I’ve lived it, eaten it, and respected it first.
That’s what we try to do at Noni - take something familiar, something real, and present it with care, precision, and intention.
If a guest can smile and say, ‘I remember this’, and still be surprised by it, then I know we’ve done something right,” he concludes.