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Don’t Just Be Seen Going Green!
June 12, 2025Berenice Axisa writes an ode to McLaren Vale, Australia’s uniquely ‘Mediterranean’ terroir
The first time I visited McLaren Vale, I had the unique pleasure of going squid fishing in the early hours of the morning from Silver Sands beach, on the Gulf St. Vincent.
The crystal-clear waters, the sun rising over the hills and vines and the great wines I enjoyed over dinner and winemaking conversations the previous evening, made me realise how truly beautiful this region is. It was then that I decided that McLaren Vale would be my new home.
I've been blessed to live and love on the coastline of McLaren Vale for the past 14 years.
Nestled between the Mount Lofty Ranges and the ocean, McLaren Vale is a region that has built its global reputation on exceptional wines, innovative winemaking and a deep respect for the land.
With a history dating back to 1838, McLaren Vale is renowned for producing some of the finest Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache wines, alongside an exciting array of Mediterranean varieties.
The influence of geology on wine
One of McLaren Vale’s defining features is its extraordinary geological diversity. Following years of dedicated research, the region published its first geology map in 2010, showcasing over 55 unique geologies, some dating back 550 million years.
This geological diversity plays a crucial role in shaping the region’s wines. The varied terrain gives rise to a multitude of soil types, from red-brown sandy loams to grey-brown loamy sands with yellow clay subsoils, interspersed with limestone.
These differences influence water retention, vine health, and ultimately, the complexity and balance of the wines. Combined with McLaren Vale’s ‘Mediterranean’ climate - warm, dry summers moderated by the cooling effects of the Gulf St Vincent - this unique terroir enables winemakers to craft wines of both consistency and distinction.
Leading the way in sustainability
McLaren Vale has set the benchmark for sustainable winegrowing in Australia. Recognised as the country’s most environmentally-conscious wine region, it has pioneered organic viticulture, responsible water management, and climate-appropriate plantings.
Nearly 40% of the region’s vineyards are certified organic and/ or biodynamic, and it is home to Australia’s first and largest recycled water network. Furthermore, McLaren Vale played a key role in the establishment of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia, the national sustainability initiative that promotes best practices across the industry.
Rooted in respect for the land, the region’s viticultural approach echoes the stewardship of the indigenous Kaurna people, who have cared for these rolling hills, rich soils and coastal plains for thousands of years.
Showcasing diversity and innovation
While McLaren Vale remains a stronghold for traditional varieties like Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, it is also emerging as a hub for Mediterranean varieties that thrive in warm climates.
Hence, I totally feel at home here. Winemakers are achieving remarkable success with Fiano, Montepulciano, Nero d’Avola, Sangiovese, Tempranillo and Vermentino, producing wines with freshness, vibrancy and a true sense of place.
Grenache, once overshadowed by Shiraz, is now being celebrated in its own right. Winemakers have shifted towards a more delicate approach, treating Grenache with the finesse typically reserved for Pinot Noir. This has resulted in wines that are elegant, complex and expressive of their unique terroir.
Wine critic James Halliday aptly described Grenache as “McLaren Vale’s secret weapon” and, today, it is becoming one of the region’s standout varietals.
A spirit of creativity
McLaren Vale’s winemakers are known for their adventurous spirit, constantly pushing boundaries to refine and redefine their craft.
Collaboration and experimentation drive the region’s winemaking philosophy, with a focus on earlier harvesting, gentler extraction methods and minimal oak influence. This modern approach ensures that McLaren Vale wines retain their freshness, balance and a true reflection of their terroir.
For the past six years, I have had the privilege of working alongside winemaker Elena Brooks at Dandelion Vineyards. Her extensive wine experience and great leadership have been truly inspirational, reinforcing my passion for wine and the incredible potential of this region.
Her ability to balance tradition with innovation exemplifies the spirit of McLaren Vale - where bold ideas and respect for the land create wines of exceptional character and depth.
Each bottle of McLaren Vale wine tells a story - a story of ancient landscapes, sustainable practices and passionate winemakers dedicated to innovation. Whether it’s a classic Shiraz, a delicate Grenache, or an emerging Mediterranean varietal, McLaren Vale wines offer a journey of discovery, celebrating the essence of one of Australia’s most dynamic wine regions.
So, as you explore the world of wine, be sure to raise a glass to McLaren Vale - a region where tradition meets innovation and every sip speaks of its remarkable land.
One of McLaren Vale’s defining features is its extraordinary geological diversity. Following years of dedicated research, the region published its first geology map in 2010, showcasing over 55 unique geologies, some dating back 550 million years.
This geological diversity plays a crucial role in shaping the region’s wines. The varied terrain gives rise to a multitude of soil types, from red-brown sandy loams to grey-brown loamy sands with yellow clay subsoils, interspersed with limestone.
These differences influence water retention, vine health, and ultimately, the complexity and balance of the wines. Combined with McLaren Vale’s ‘Mediterranean’ climate - warm, dry summers moderated by the cooling effects of the Gulf St Vincent - this unique terroir enables winemakers to craft wines of both consistency and distinction.
Leading the way in sustainability
McLaren Vale has set the benchmark for sustainable winegrowing in Australia. Recognised as the country’s most environmentally-conscious wine region, it has pioneered organic viticulture, responsible water management, and climate-appropriate plantings.
Nearly 40% of the region’s vineyards are certified organic and/ or biodynamic, and it is home to Australia’s first and largest recycled water network. Furthermore, McLaren Vale played a key role in the establishment of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia, the national sustainability initiative that promotes best practices across the industry.
Rooted in respect for the land, the region’s viticultural approach echoes the stewardship of the indigenous Kaurna people, who have cared for these rolling hills, rich soils and coastal plains for thousands of years.
Showcasing diversity and innovation
While McLaren Vale remains a stronghold for traditional varieties like Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, it is also emerging as a hub for Mediterranean varieties that thrive in warm climates.
Hence, I totally feel at home here. Winemakers are achieving remarkable success with Fiano, Montepulciano, Nero d’Avola, Sangiovese, Tempranillo and Vermentino, producing wines with freshness, vibrancy and a true sense of place.
Grenache, once overshadowed by Shiraz, is now being celebrated in its own right. Winemakers have shifted towards a more delicate approach, treating Grenache with the finesse typically reserved for Pinot Noir. This has resulted in wines that are elegant, complex and expressive of their unique terroir.
Wine critic James Halliday aptly described Grenache as “McLaren Vale’s secret weapon” and, today, it is becoming one of the region’s standout varietals.
A spirit of creativity
McLaren Vale’s winemakers are known for their adventurous spirit, constantly pushing boundaries to refine and redefine their craft.
Collaboration and experimentation drive the region’s winemaking philosophy, with a focus on earlier harvesting, gentler extraction methods and minimal oak influence. This modern approach ensures that McLaren Vale wines retain their freshness, balance and a true reflection of their terroir.
For the past six years, I have had the privilege of working alongside winemaker Elena Brooks at Dandelion Vineyards. Her extensive wine experience and great leadership have been truly inspirational, reinforcing my passion for wine and the incredible potential of this region.
Her ability to balance tradition with innovation exemplifies the spirit of McLaren Vale - where bold ideas and respect for the land create wines of exceptional character and depth.
Each bottle of McLaren Vale wine tells a story - a story of ancient landscapes, sustainable practices and passionate winemakers dedicated to innovation. Whether it’s a classic Shiraz, a delicate Grenache, or an emerging Mediterranean varietal, McLaren Vale wines offer a journey of discovery, celebrating the essence of one of Australia’s most dynamic wine regions.
So, as you explore the world of wine, be sure to raise a glass to McLaren Vale - a region where tradition meets innovation and every sip speaks of its remarkable land.
Berenice Axisa
Berenice Axisa is non-executive director at McLaren Vale Grape, Wine & Tourism Association and holds a Master’s in Wine Business from the Groupe Ecole Supérieure de Commerce de Dijon-Bourgogne.
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